A leash guarantees you don't lose your surfboard in the waves and protects other surfers from your board. Leashes usually are attached at the ankle and are available in different lengths, thicknesses and colours. Longboarders attach their leash below the knee - It gives you more freedom to move up and down the board.
The leash should ideally be as long as your surfboard. This gives you maximum freedom of movement and safety. If there is no leash in precisely the right length, then round up to the next length.
No break near you? No problem! River surfing and wakesurfing are rapidly gaining in popularity throughout Europe and beyond. The ideas are simple; certain rivers have breaks in them where you can surf or you can ride behind a motorboat and surf the wake. Both are great for getting your surfing fix when you live far from the ocean.
If the stars align and the conditions are in your favour, you can surf your local river wave. Or if you're not so adventurous, there are stationary wave spots for riversurfing throughout Austria, Germany, Switzerland and Italy.
No break near you? No problem! River surfing and wakesurfing are rapidly gaining in popularity throughout Europe and beyond. The ideas are simple; certain rivers have breaks in them where you can surf or you can ride behind a motorboat and surf the wake. Both are great for getting your surfing fix when you live far from the ocean.
When the Dumpster Diver hit the surfboard market place in 2007, the choice of surfboards suddenly went through the roof. Up until then there were shortboards, guns, mini mals and longboards – and that was basically it. If you surfed a shortboard, then as you got older and less fit your board grew an inch. Volume, as a guide, hadn’t come into the equation back then, so you didn’t even have that to consider. Most board buying was down to length, width, thickness and the good old jiggle test. A lot of shortboard surfers sank or gave up, purely because of the paddle power of their boards. Choosing your next board was relatively easy if you had your boards dialled.
Nowadays however the scenario is totally different. There are hundreds of different shapes and designs out there to choose between: Different rails, rockers and planshapes. Boards for every wave size and wave shape – flat waves, steep waves, rolling waves. Boards for waves with different amounts of power. So you can fine tune your equipment and get exactly the right board for both how you surf and where you surf. But dialling that in can be a bit tricky. So, how do you do it? Well, once you’ve got to the board buying stage think how you surf (cruising, ripping, do you surf off your back foot or front foot), and how you want to surf? Do you like your board, do you need more help paddling and catching waves?
Then, you can decide how many fins you are going to go for. If you’re a top to bottom surfer who spends their whole time in the pocket, then the thruster is the one for you. Straight up and down the wave it’s hard to beat. Push hard and it’ll turn tight with great control. The down side is that you get drag from the centre fin, which means it’s not as quick as other fin set ups.
If you want to surf more of the open face then maybe try a twinny. Twin fins have really come into their own again over the last five years as they’ve been redesigned for modern day surfing and are now a valid one board quiver for surfing in the UK. That lively loose feel you get from a twinnie works so well on our weaker, slacker surf. They give you a lot more speed, as there is less drag. If you are out on the face they enable you to turn smoothly while holding your speed. The down side however is that on a steeper, faster wave, you might have to nurse a small wave twinnie a bit, as you don’t have that stabilising centre fin to push against. They can sometimes spin out if you push too hard. (Obviously twin pins and the like built for reefs and points have fins set up to allow for this, but going over the ledge on a twin is still an acquired taste for most.)
Somewhere between the two sits the quad. Quads get up to speed quicker than the thruster as you don’t have the centre fin drag, and you don’t have to work them like you do a thruster to generate speed (due to their forward drive), but they don’t generally turn as well or as tightly as a thruster.
When it’s small and weak surf, quads are great. Also in fast, hollow waves when high line speed is required, the quad works better than the thruster. When you want to turn though, that’s when the thruster comes into its own.
Once your fin set up is sorted, you need to work out the correct board for your needs. The most important rule here is that a long standing relationship with an honest and experienced shaper or board salesman will pay handsomely.
Firstly decide what wave size you want to cover – up to chest high, chest high to just overhead (your daily driver), overhead to double overhead. When you have worked that out, then think of where you are surfing and the type of wave you are surfing.
Let’s say this board is for you to surf your local beachie. Your average British beach breaks are not that powerful and generally err on the slacker side, so take this into account. A slacker, fatter wave will require a fatter, flatter board with fuller rails and more volume (this will enable you to catch waves easily and not bog down in the slacker, slower conditions).
If your local wave stands up more and is more powerful, then you will need a board that has more curve in it to fit the wave shape. Also, a lower rail to bite into the wave, as a full rail won’t hold onto the wave as well when you’re going a lot faster. As always, speak to the experts. We see a lot of well meaning advice being given out on forums that isn’t necessarily going to help when they haven’t actually seen your old board or know how you surf.
Tell them what you like and don’t like about it. They have seen so many boards that they should be able to tell what plan shape, rocker, rails, size and volume will help you progress. And maybe they have demo board you can try.
Choosing a surfboard can be fun and complex at the same time. Do you know what to consider when choosing a new surfboard? Take a look at the questions you should ask before buying new surfboards.
A new surfboard should always be a rational investment decision. Whether you're about to spend $200 or $1000, you need to leave emotions aside.
Forget the colors, the logos, the drawings, and the dramatic shapes. Surfboards serve a purpose. They were built to provide joy and fun to people.
Spyder Surfboard reviewsThey are the key to wave riding. Therefore, we don't buy them to look cool and endorse a lifestyle sold by media outlets.
Surfboards are a means to an end. If you buy a new surfboard without running through a checklist first, you'll rapidly regret your impulsive decision.
Surfboards were made to glide, and there are too many elements and variables at stake - construction types and techniques, materials, styles, and designs.
So, next time you enter a surf shop to purchase a new plank, make sure you know the answers to the following questions:
A new surfboard doesn't necessarily mean the first surfboard. And the board of your dreams might not suit your universe at all.
Don't get fooled by brands, logos, or fascinating signatures. Always compare identical surfboards, and ask for advice at your local surf shop.
Will you stick to the old foam, or will you take the risk and go for new and environmentally friendly cores such as polystyrene and balsa?
Will you stick to the old foam, or will you take the risk and go for new and environmentally friendly cores such as polystyrene and balsa?
Are you into quads, or do you play it safe and buy a five-fin model? Need to know more about surf fins?
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